Australian fashion is going beyond beachwear a new generation of designers makes Instagram-worth

April 2024 · 5 minute read

While they each have their own identity and way of working, they share common traits such as an advantageous price-to-quality ratio and pared-back visuals. The result is clothes that are simple, modern and, above all, wearable.

“A common misconception about the Australian fashion landscape is that it primarily consists of beachwear and casual attire,” says Lara Fells, co-founder of St Agni with her husband, Matt.

What began in their adopted home of Byron Bay in 2014 with a hit footwear collection made from woven leather has since evolved into a fully fledged ready-to-wear and lifestyle brand with a clear-cut aesthetic.

“We were in the height of the bohemian era, there was a prevalent trend of heavily embellished designs dominating the market and we saw a genuine gap in the market for minimalistic designs,” Fells says.

Using the pure lines of the 1990s as a reference point, she set out to build collections that reimagine the modern uniform or, as she explains, embrace “a classic aesthetic that can be worn for years to come”.

The result? A little grey dress – à la Carrie Bradshaw in the original Sex and the City television show – sported by Jenner on the streets of Paris, and a tank top and tailored trousers set she rocked at this year’s Coachella music and arts festival in California.

The brand’s visual language strives to balance form and function, and its stripped-back aesthetic extends to its stores in Byron Bay and Brisbane.

Internationally, St Agni is available via its own site and through retailers such as Browns, Luisa Via Roma and Net-a-Porter.

For fans of toned-down looks, there’s also Posse.

“Less is definitely more,” says Danielle Mulham, who founded the Sydney-based brand in 2016. “I always found the fashion industry a little intimidating, so above all I wanted to create a brand that was inviting, friendly and approachable.”

Posse’s stand-out styles include linen coordinates – a core part of the brand’s DNA – as well as statement separates such as a knotted bandeau top.

“Australian women don’t overthink their day-to-day outfits; versatility and wearability is key, and our fabrics play a big part in this,” Mulham says.

Posse has seen exponential growth over the past few years, and has been spotted on the likes of US model Sofia Richie Grainge – a signature linen vest and midi skirt which instantly sold out – and Prince Harry’s wife, Meghan Markle – a striped dress.

Mulham is an avid proponent of wardrobe building, and favourite Posse styles feature in its L’essentials range.

“We have a very strict rule of ‘no filler’ pieces in our collections, ensuring that each piece has a purpose,” she says.

The brand is available worldwide through its own site and online retailers such as Matchesfashion and Moda Operandi, and there is a push to have more physical stores overseas stocking Posse.

For another Australian brand, Dissh, the key driver of international growth is its digital-first philosophy, although it also operates several bricks-and-mortar stores.

“The global pandemic was difficult for our retail team, [but] it did present us with an opportunity to be laser-focused on e-commerce, which has paid off in the time since,” says Lucy Henry-Hicks, owner and managing director of the brand since 2020.

Dissh was founded in 2001 as a fast-fashion retailer, but Henry-Hicks shifted its focus.

Everything it produces is designed in-house at its headquarters in Brisbane. “We take our inspiration from our roots in Queensland, the sunshine state of Australia,” she says.

“The weather is warm and the lifestyle is very much centred around the coastline and the beautiful natural surroundings.”

Under her leadership, Dissh’s offering pivoted to modern silhouettes that largely use natural fibres and are pitched at an affordable price point, as seen in bestsellers such as its ribbed knit dresses and casual suits.

Henry-Hicks designs with the mindset that its looks should complement what is already in the customer’s wardrobe. In her view, the Dissh shopper is “the quintessential modern young woman, she’s got a lot going on, whether it be study, work, motherhood”.

This is a philosophy Dissh shares with Posse and St Agni and one that has allowed them to penetrate a highly saturated fashion market ­– they do not seek to dictate how their customers should dress, and collections are designed to integrate seamlessly into their lifestyles rather than stand alone.

Timelessness, too, plays a factor in these labels’ designs. Much like “quiet luxury” brands – but selling at a more accessible price point – they want to avoid designing pieces that will be cast aside with the changing of trends and seasons.

“Brands leading the quiet luxury market, such as The Row, are focusing on pieces that look refined and are not fussy,” says Henry-Hicks. “We see Dissh as a great everyday support to designer styles.

“It’s all about mixing high, low and in-between. In my opinion, that’s the true definition of style.”

Sustainability, and designing and producing with purpose, is another thing these brands share. Posse is committed to craftsmanship, fabrication and producing in small quantities, and only reordering a product if it is 100 per cent confident it will sell out.

At St Agni, Fells is looking into developing a circular programme for customers, incorporating more unsold fabrics and introducing upcycling initiatives to transform old St Agni pieces into new creations.

Dissh has spearheaded industry-leading paid parental leave schemes and has partnered with philanthropic bodies, such as the non-profit community organisation Suited to Success, to help people overcome barriers to employment.

“Beyond the product, we know what we stand for, the difference we want to make, and I think our customers really resonate with that,” says Henry-Hicks.

Because the pandemic made online shopping an everyday activity and social media platforms have brought them unprecedented visibility, customers are increasingly engaging with brands directly, regardless of where they live.

There is no doubt that the demand for the work of Australian designers will continue to grow, as more people get drawn in by the magic of laid-back ease.

“I feel our style is adaptable and relatable,” says Mulham. “Our relaxed way of life is quite infectious.”

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