Olivier Reza was inspired by his father to create unique jewellery

June 2024 ยท 4 minute read

Olivier Reza is full of surprises. Not only did he make the controversial decision to consolidate the boutiques of his father's Alexandre Reza House into just one salon, but the head of the prestigious jeweller wasn't always an expert in the business - it was only seven years ago that he was enjoying a successful career in international banking.

"I was a partner of Lazard's M&A team in New York until the summer of 2008. At that point, my father fell ill and I was left to handle our family's affairs," Reza recalls. It was when he started to really research his father's work that he began learning about the business to which Alexandre Reza dedicated his life.

"He became my main source of inspiration - he had an unrivalled eye for quality and magnificence," he says. "He was a relentless man and would sometimes wait years until he could create the perfect piece. His level of passion and commitment really drew me into his work."

Reza remembers watching his father in the atelier when he was younger. "He was always moving stones around, playing with them until he found a match that could be constructed into a perfect suite," he says. It was ultimately this meticulous care and patience that Reza came to admire most about his father, and it set the standard by which he would measure his success as the head of the jewellery house.

Even with the bar set so high, it's clear that the son is continuing his father's tradition of aiming for perfection and pushing the limits of what is possible in the industry. Alexandre Reza House will be participating in The European Fine Art Fair (TEFAF) this month, and the 10-day event is generally considered to be one of the world's most important art fairs.

"To be inducted into TEFAF is a very rigorous process, and there's an extremely long wait list," Reza says. "Even after you're accepted, each piece on show has to be vetted beforehand by 29 specialist vetting committees, made up of around 170 international experts who assess them in terms of quality, authenticity and condition."

The jewellery house will be showcasing several of Alexandre Reza's creations, including the Sapphire Parure (circa 1981) and the Carcan Necklace, and new pieces created under Olivier Reza, such as the Ruban, Twin Earrings and Tour Ring.

It seems that the younger Reza's strategy to focus on quality rather than volume is working. While his father had once pushed for an international presence - opening salons in Geneva, Cannes and Monte Carlo - Reza has decided to stay small and contained, keeping only the Parisian salon at Place Vendome, a move that he says has helped to raise the rarity and value of the house's jewellery.

"Our pieces take much longer to create - anywhere from six to 18 months. I believe that works of art demand strict requirements and an acute and laborious attention to detail," he says, pointing out that this is in line with his father's view on jewellery.

"My father created pieces that are extremely rare and most likely could not be reproduced today, simply because the materials used are no longer available. We house stones that can no longer be sourced at this size and calibre. Our inventory is a finite commodity."

That is not to say that Reza is ultraconservative. He has plans for the brand to eventually include high-end men's jewellery. Ultimately, his objective is to offer the wearers of his jewellery a one-of-a-kind experience.

"My hope is not to sell stones, but to create works of art," he says. "This can mean different things to different people, of course, but the ultimate result will be three-dimensional, beautiful jewellery that complements the wearer and makes them feel part of a bigger endeavour."

Even after all Reza has achieved, the most memorable moment of his career is still the time he sold his first important piece. For Reza, it all boils down to what it means for his clients. "[It's about] seeing the customer's eyes shine when they choose a piece and tell me that 'when it's beautiful, there is nothing to say'."

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Rising son Rising son

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